You’re walking along the Thames, dodging slow-moving tour groups near the Golden Hinde, and suddenly there’s this massive, sprawling brick building with bright red window frames. That’s it. The Anchor Bankside pub isn't just another place to grab a lukewarm pint; it’s basically a living, breathing time capsule of London’s weirdest and darkest history.
People come for the view. They stay because they realize they’re standing on the same ground where Samuel Pepys watched the Great Fire of London consume the city in 1666. He actually fled to a "little alehouse on the Bankside" to watch the flames. Most historians agree this was the spot. It’s heavy.
London is full of "old" pubs that were actually built in 1920 to look like 1620. The Anchor is different. While the current structure mostly dates back to the late 18th century—thanks to a massive fire in 1750—the foundations and the soul of the place go back way further. We’re talking about a site that has hosted taverns for over 800 years.
The Gritty Reality Behind the Red Windows
If you look at the Anchor Bankside pub today, it looks cozy. But back in the day? This area, Southwark, was the "wild west" of London. It was outside the jurisdiction of the City of London, which meant if you wanted to do something illegal or slightly immoral, you crossed the bridge to Bankside.
Prostitution, bear-baiting, and unlicensed theater were the local industries. The pub was right in the thick of the "Stews" of Southwark. It wasn't just a place for a quiet drink; it was a haunt for river pirates, smugglers, and actors from the nearby Globe Theatre.
Why the Architecture Feels Like a Maze
Ever tried to find the bathroom in there? You’ll probably get lost. That’s because the building is a chaotic patchwork of additions and renovations.
The interior is a labyrinth of low ceilings, creaky floorboards, and "snugs"—those tiny, private rooms where people used to conduct business they didn't want the neighbors seeing. There are even rumors of secret tunnels used by smugglers to move goods from the Thames directly into the cellar without the taxman noticing. Honestly, walking through the different rooms feels like moving through different centuries. One minute you’re in a polished dining area, the next you’re in a dark corner that feels like it hasn't seen sunlight since the Georgian era.
The Shakespeare and Johnson Connection
We know Shakespeare lived nearby. We know he worked at the Globe. It’s almost a mathematical certainty he drank at the predecessor of the Anchor.
But the more documented literary connection is Dr. Samuel Johnson. You know, the guy who wrote the first real English Dictionary. He was a regular here because his friends, the Thrales, owned the brewery next door (the Anchor Brewery, which eventually became Barclay Perkins & Co).
There’s a room dedicated to him. It’s not just marketing fluff. Johnson spent a huge amount of time in this specific building, likely arguing about philosophy while drinking heavy ales. If you’re a book nerd, sitting in the Johnson room feels like a pilgrimage. It’s one of those rare spots where "history" feels less like a textbook and more like a physical presence.
The Great Fire of 1666
Let’s talk about Samuel Pepys again. His diary is the main reason we know what the Great Fire actually felt like. On September 2, 1666, he wrote about going to a "little alehouse on the Bankside" and watching the fire grow.
"And there staid till it was dark almost, and saw the fire grow; and, as it grew darker, appeared more and more, and in corners and upon steeples, and between churches and houses, as far as we could see up the hill of the City, in a most horrid malicious bloody flame..."
Imagine standing on that terrace today with a cold lager, looking across at St. Paul’s Cathedral, and realizing a guy stood exactly where you are while the entire city across the water was melting. It’s a trip.
What to Actually Order (and What to Avoid)
The Anchor is a Greene King pub. Let’s be real for a second: that means the food is standard British pub fare. It’s fine. It’s consistent. But you aren’t coming here for a Michelin-starred experience.
- The Fish and Chips: Usually the safest bet. They do a solid beer batter.
- The Pies: Very British, very filling. Good for a rainy Tuesday.
- The Beer: This is where you focus. They carry a decent range of cask ales. If you want the "authentic" experience, skip the Stella and ask what’s on the hand pump.
Kinda weirdly, the Anchor is one of the few places in London that feels okay even when it’s packed with tourists. Usually, "tourist traps" are soul-sucking. But the Anchor is so big and has so many layers that it manages to keep its dignity. Even when the terrace is overflowing in July, you can usually find a dark corner inside to hide in.
Misconceptions About the Age
A lot of people think the building they see today is the exact one from the 1600s. It’s not.
Fire was a constant threat back then. The 1750 fire pretty much gutted the place. Most of what you’re touching today is 18th and 19th-century brickwork. But in London terms, that’s still "old as dirt." The core of the structure, the cellars, and the general vibe have survived the Blitz, the decline of the Thames shipping industry, and the gentrification of Bankside.
The pub even survived the massive redevelopment of the area. When the giant warehouses around it were being converted into luxury flats and offices, the Anchor stayed put. It’s a stubborn piece of architecture.
How to Get the Best Experience
Don't just walk in the front door and grab the first table you see. Explore.
- Check the Terrace first. Even in winter, the view of the City skyline is one of the best in Southwark.
- Head Upstairs. Many people don't realize there are multiple levels. The views get better the higher you go.
- Look for the "Clink" remnants. You’re right near the site of the infamous Clink Prison. The whole atmosphere of the street—Clink Street—is narrow and dark, giving you a sense of what Victorian London actually felt like.
It’s easy to get cynical about London pubs. So many have been "gastropubbed" into oblivion, losing all their character for grey paint and Edison bulbs. The Anchor Bankside pub hasn't done that. It’s still dark. It’s still a bit cramped in places. It still smells a bit like old wood and spilled beer.
Is it actually a "Pirate Pub"?
You’ll hear people call it a pirate pub. That’s a bit of an exaggeration for the tourists, but it’s based on truth. The "watermen" of the Thames were often involved in shady business. Privateers (basically legal pirates) would have definitely frequented the alehouses along the Southwark bank because they could avoid the more stringent laws of the City of London.
So, while there might not be buried treasure under the floorboards, there was definitely a lot of "off the books" cargo moving through those doors.
Final Practical Tips for Your Visit
If you’re planning to head down, keep a few things in mind. First, it gets absolutely slammed on Friday evenings when the local office workers finish their shifts. If you want to actually see the history, go on a weekday afternoon.
Second, the pub is a great starting point for a "History Walk." Start at the Anchor, walk past the Golden Hinde (a full-scale replica of the ship Sir Francis Drake used to circumnavigate the globe), hit the Winchester Palace ruins, and end up at Borough Market.
Check the Tide
Kinda cool detail: the Thames is tidal. If you sit on the terrace at low tide, the river looks like a muddy mess. At high tide, the water comes right up to the wall, and you can feel the power of the river that made London what it is. It changes the whole vibe of the drink.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit:
- Locate the Samuel Johnson Room: Specifically look for the portraits and the history plaques inside; it’s the best spot for a quiet conversation.
- Time your arrival: Aim for 3:00 PM on a Tuesday or Wednesday to get the best choice of seating without the crowds.
- Check the Cask Ale list: Don't just order a lager; try a local bitter to match the historical setting.
- Walk the Clink Street route: Exit the pub and turn right to walk through the narrowest part of the street to see the original prison site.
- Photograph the exterior at dusk: The red window frames against the darkening sky make for the best photos, especially with the City lights reflecting on the water.
The Anchor isn't just a place to drink; it's a way to touch the timeline of London without paying for a museum ticket. You’re sitting where Pepys sat, where Johnson argued, and where centuries of Londoners have come to escape the chaos of the city. Just watch your head on those low beams.